Day 4: Champex-Lac to Le Chable

According to Kev, today was “easy.” According to Chris, “It was steep and far down to the place.” The hike was mostly downhill, but that can be very rough on the legs. It started out fabulously. We hobbled to breakfast and then decided to go for a walk before checking out of the Club Alpin. The walk elevated our legs from very gimpy to slightly sore status. We watched old men fishing along the Lac and fog rolling in over the hills. We spoke with 3 people on their way out on the Tour du Mont Blanc, and one couple from Texas (Mike and Jenny) who are also doing the Haute Route. None of them went over the Fenetre the day before, which made us feel either special or dumb, or maybe just “youthfully” over-ambitious.

We left town about 10:15. The first half of the hike was great – overlooking a very pastoral valley with impressive mountains all around. We passed a handful of hamlets. Many of the homes in this region have their own garden, some of which Chris was drooling over.

If I could go back to this AM however, I would recommend taking the train between Sembrancher and Le Chable. Much of the walk was on a gravel road next to an extensive gravel pit, with lots of heavy machinery and a recycling/compost center. It was ugly, to be honest. One highlight, however, was when we realized the Tour de France had passed through this area in July. Apparently, there’s something called the “Livestrong bot”, which will paint messages on the raods of the TDF. The messages went on for a few hundred meters and made an impression on me. Here, thousands of miles from home, you see evidence of two things probably all people have in common. First is cancer – in some form we all know someone who had or has it. Second is the human spirit – the will to fight, the audacity to hope (sorry to steal the phrase), the remembrance of loved ones gone, the need to cheer for cyclists about to tackle climbs that seem just as crazy as beating cancer. It just made me feel, I don’t know, more connected to the humanity around us, and even to whatever it is that compels so many people to shoulder a pack and traipse through these jumbled mountains (I’ll let you know when I figure out what that is).

So enough philosophy. Le Chable is in an impressive setting, but unfortunately it’s cloudy so we can’t fully appreciate it. We spent the afternoon in an exhausting search for groceries, dinner, gifts, etc. But now we are enjoying our 80 degrees private room in Hotel la Poste. Also we are noticing our heart rates are unusually high. Mine was 86 bpm at breakfast. Maybe it was the 3 cups of coffee, because tonight it is down to 52.